Tomb Complex of Jhajjar

Instead of 'Heritage of Haryana' it would be more appropriate (and sad) to use the term ‘Dying Heritage of Haryana’. Earlier I used to think that we at Haryana, don't have much of a heritage to share with the world, but as I am visiting new places, I am beginning to feel exactly the opposite. The more I go out, more proud I start feeling of my state’s past but at the same time also equally horrified at the present state of our heritage.

My objective here is not to criticise anybody but to bring the attention (if possible) towards the sad situation of these amazing monuments of our state. If we keep on giving the same treatment to our monuments then pretty soon there won't be much left to conserve.

Tomb Complex of Jhajjar

Tomb complex of Jhajjar is one of the most remarkable monument, one should be visiting while on historical tour of Haryana. It is situated on the outskirts of the city of Jhajjar, near its Ramlila Maidan.I got the chance to visit this monument in Feb. 2013.

It would have taken a very long time for me to visit this monument, had it not been recommended by Sh. Yashpal Gulia, Sub Divisional Engineer,P.W.D.,Haryana. He has written about these tombs in detail in his remarkable book “Heritage of Haryana”.

From Buddha Stupas to Medieval Kos-minars, from ancient ruins to the buildings associated with Princely states and Britishers, he has written about almost every major and important monument of the state along with their photographs. It is a wonderful book for those who want to know more about Haryana's grand heritage.

This tomb complex belong to the local chiefs who were active in the area from early 17^th century to the beginning of 18^th century. They are known as Kalal rulers. They were granted jageers of surrounding areas by their contemporary Mughal rulers.

It appears that once, this complex had several tombs but today only 7 are visible while the presence of the rest can be sensed through their still visible platforms. Even among the present tombs, only one or two are in better shape, rest others are under the mercy of nature as well as on the mood of adventurers.

Different views of Tomb of Hasan Shahid, Jhajjar

As per Mr. Gulia’s book “Heritage of Haryana” this above tomb belongs to one Hasan Shahid who was killed in a battle during early 17^th century. This monument got completed in the year 1625.

Other tombs in the complex

Another nearby tomb belongs to a saint, Abdus Samad which is believed to be built by Ismail Irah Raib in 1611. Just like several other monuments of the state, walls of these complexes are also covered with writings from the past.

Other views of the complex

This whole complex, its design and murals are simply amazing. It certainly deserves much more attention and if restored properly can attract large number of tourists.

Following refrences were consulted for this write up.:-
"Haryana ka riyasati Itihaas" by Sh.Yashpal Gulia.
"Heritage of Haryana" by Sh.Yashpal Gulia.
"Reprint of Rohtak District Gazetteer,1910" By Revenue Department, Haryana, 1998, p44 to p45

About Jhajjar:-Jhajjar city is situated at around 65 Km from Delhi, 45 Km from Gurgaon and 40 Km from Rohtak.

About this monument:- This monument is situated on the outskirts of the city on Jhajjar-Bahadurgarh State Highway no.22. Just ask for Ramlila Maidan and you will be directed to this complex.

Another old baoli (bawdi) at Naranul.

I don’t know whether we actually know the history of our cities or we just pretend about knowing it.  I feel great, whenever I come across a well preserved monument and my happiness increases when i find it having an introduction (however brief it may be) near its entrance and I begin to think that we indeed, do know something about our history.

On the other hand, I have seen several equally remarkable monuments which seem to have so much information about the past but they are in a completely neglected state. Instead of having a much deserved introductory board, they don’t even have the trespassers warning sign board. The situation becomes even more ugly when you visit the building and see it covered with the writings from 17^th century and when you try to search this building on official websites and in local books, you end up finding absolutely nothing about it.

This forces me to believe that we actually know very less about our local history and adding to that, we are deliberately trying to ignore and destroying much more. One such monument is situated on the outskirts of city of Naranul, inside the premises of its famous Baba Kheta Nath Government Polytechnic College.

There are actually two monuments inside this college. One is an unknown tomb (near its water tank).

Unknown old monument inside college

Other one is a Bawdi(Baoli) situated at the centre.

Entry of the Bawdi(Baoli)

Bawdi from inside

This three story monument is actually a step-well, with one floor at sub-ground level. There are stairs at one side that goes all the way to the bottom of it and are perhaps separated by a wall from a well on its other end.

The most remarkable thing about this monument are the writings on its walls, seems to have been written by people who had perhaps stayed here, during their journeys. These writings go back all the way from 21^st century to 17^th century. They are in Hindi, Urdu, Persian, Old broken Hindi (?) and even in English.

Writing on the wall

Another wall writing

Another writing in Urdu  Persian 

(as pointed out in comments section by Tarun Pant ji )

Thanks to dirt, webs and ignorance of our restoration departments (which perhaps would have plastered over these walls, without even bothering to chronicle these writings before doing so), these writings are still visible today. I have taken photographs of as many as I could find there and some of them I am posting here.

At least the oldest year mentioned in these would help us with a probable time of the construction of this building and also we would be able to find out, what kind of people used to visit the city and from where and with what purpose. So, in my opinion these writings are an important source of our history and deserve to be studied carefully.

About Narnaul :- Naranul city is a part of Mohindergarh district. It is situated at a distance of 28 Km from Mohindergarh, 50 Km from Rewari and 150 Kms from Delhi and Jaipur.

About the Monument :- Both these monuments are situated inside the premises of BKN Govt. Polytechnic College which is situated on the outskirts of Naranul. It's better to take Narnaul- Nizampur road for reaching there. You have to take a link road on the left side after around 1-2 Km from Naranul, which would again be taking you back towards the city. You can ask anybody there about this college.

Co-ordinates of the monument :- 28°02’08.30” N and 76°06’01.40” E (for bawdi) and 

                                                  28°02’12.00” N and 76°06’05.33” E (for the unknown monument) 

Rai Bal Mukund Dass ka Chatta, Narnaul

This is by far the most beautiful and the most ignored monument, I have come across. This magnificent haveli is situated at the heart of Narnaul city and has been around for more than 350 years now.

             

What I have read in local history books and have heard from people, is that this haveli was the residence of a rich man named Rai Bal Mukund Dass. He was holding a very high and reputable post in this area during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. 

This haveli is popularly known as "Birbal ka Chatta". How and why this building came to be associated with this famous courtier of emperor Akbar, is still unknown.

              One can only imagine what this monument would have looked like when it was at its prime. 

View from top floor

View from Ground floor

Today its condition is so pathetic that I doubt even the architect of the original building would perhaps fail to recognize it (if he could come back). I know, I am exaggerating the things here, but once you visit this monument and look at its beautiful corridors, halls and rooms then perhaps you too, would start wondering at what our conservation department is doing in this regard.

I know that certain sections have got deteriorated even beyond the scope of repairing and it would be a challenging task for restorers to look after the remaining portion but that doesn't mean that this beautiful monument should stay in this current pathetic state. Still a lot can be preserved. Perhaps there is no other better place for highlighting the architectural advancement of this region.

Broken roof

            Once a five storied structure, it is now left with only three. Only a small section of the remaining two underground levels is accessible today, rest is buried under rubble which no one has bothered to clear. 

Only accessible portion of  the basement

Only part with its wooden pillars and roof still intact

(on first floor)

It seems that the original area of this building would have been much larger than what it is currently left with. I visited this monument in March 2012 and took more than 100 pictures of its different sections which I am trying to arrange in a better way. Some of them i have shared here.

There are several writings on walls here, written both in old Hindi and Urdu. Many of these seem to have been written more than 200 years ago. I doubt if someone has even bothered to decipher them or even cared to look at them closely.They might prove to be an important source for understanding the environment of those days. Below is the photograph of one such writing

Writing on the wall

(Seems to have been written around Samvat 1849 i.e. around 1781-82 AD, 

Writer has written the year at the bottom of this note)

About Narnaul:- Narnaul city is a part of district Mohindergarh of Haryana State. It is situated at a distance of 50 Km from Rewari and 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur. 

About this monument :- This monument is situated at the center of the city, near Mohalla Nalapur. You can ask anyone there, for directions. It is popularly known as - "Birbal ka Chatta" and is generally kept closed to avoid damage and other activities in it. You can request monument keepers who reside in the outer section of the same monument, alongside the street, for opening it and showing you around. 

Co-ordinates of the monument : - 28°02’43.00” N  76°06’30.70” E