Showing posts with label Other Architecture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Other Architecture. Show all posts

Sunday, 17 February 2013

Monuments related to 1857 in Narnaul


16th November 1857, one of the last important battles (in North) between the armies of East India Company and the armies of local people was fought in the fields of village Nasibpur, near Narnaul. A combined army of 1st European Bengal Fusiliers, Hurrianah Field Force, Guides and Carabineers fought against the collective army of Jodhpur Legion, Jhajjar State, Rewari and Local people.

Native army was being led by leaders like Rao Gopal Dev, Rao Tula Ram, Abdus Sannand Khan and others while the Company’s army was fighting under the command of Col. John Grant Gerrard of 1st Fusiliers. The contemporary records shows that it was a close battle and could have turned in any direction but in the end, it was the experienced, company army that stood victorious.

Importance of the battle can be gauged from the fact that even a Victoria Cross was awarded in this battle to Lt. Francis David Millet Brown (1st European Fusiliers) for his act of bravery of saving a wounded soldier under a very heavy fire. If only there had been a similar system of rewarding the bravery of native people, no doubt the list would have been longer. In the field reports of Company officers, they had mentioned that on several occasions they had to fight with all their might to gain even a small advantage on the battlefield. They admired the raw courage of the opposing army on several occasions.

People from both the sides had lost their lives. More than 70 soldiers of company army including their commanding officer, Col. J.G.Gerrard too had died on the battlefield, while the native army had also suffered a huge loss and had lost several of their leaders which included Rao Kishan Singh, Rao Ram Lal and many others whose names perhaps we would never be able to find out.

What we do know is that they were fighting side by side and were not worried about their religion, their castes and other things.

More than 155 years have passed since this battle but still local people remember it. There is a memorial close to the battlefield, dedicated to people who had lost their lives on that day. Grave of Col. John Grant Gerrard is also situated very close to this memorial.

Monument erected in Jan.1962 near the battlefield

Closeup of the Memorial
( It reads 
"Nasibpur Memorial
This memorial is erected in the memory of people who had sacrificed their lives in 1857
January 1962")

Grave of Col. J.G.Gerrard

There is another monument related to this battle which still survives, not in good condition though.
In the city of Narnaul (3-4 Km from the battlefield of Nasibpur), there is a 17th century complex, locally known as ‘Old Court’ and which was originally a sarai (kind of rest house of those days). This complex was initially used by the native army as their Headquarter but after the battle it was captured by the company soldiers. Although the complex is almost gone now (demolished under the pretext of modernisation) but its huge entry gate still survives. (Read more about this monument at following page of the blog http://haryanaheritage.blogspot.in/2012/10/remains-of-17th-century-serai-narnaul.html )

I was not able to locate the exact battlefield but from the contemporary records it appears that it was fought in a ground situated between the two small hills. From the location of graves and the monument, one can be sure about the probable site of the battle. I have taken snaps from both these hills one of which is situated behind the Housing board Colony and the other one is at Village Dhani Kirarod (taken from the monument mentioned previously on the blog at http://haryanaheritage.blogspot.in/2012/08/remains-of-unknown-building-on-hilltop.html ).
View of the battlefield from Housing Board Hills
(Looking at Dhani Kirarod Hills)

View of the battlefield from Dhani Kirarod
(Looking at Housing Board Hills)

I have taken help from following books for details.

1) Hariyana me 1857 ki kranti (“Revolution of 1857 in Haryana”) by Dr. K.C.Yadav.
2)Itihaas ke Jharonkhe se Narnaul (“Narnaul From the Window of History”) by Mr. R.L.Saini and Mr.    Rakesh Mehta.
3)Narnaul ka Itihaas: Aarrambh se 1987 tak (“History of Narnaul: From beginning till 1987”) by Dr.Suresh Kumar Yadav.
4)1857 ki Jan Kranti me Hariyana ka Yogdan (“Role of Haryana in the people’s revolution of 1857”) by Mr. Ram Singh Jhakhar.
and several other websites.

 About Village Nasibpur:- Nasibpur is situated at a distance of 3 km from Narnaul on the Mohindregarh-Narnaul State highway no. 17)
 About the monument :- Both the 1857 memorial and graves of company officers are situated in the vicinity of Jethu Baba Temple, Nasibpur
Co ordinates of the monument :-Co ordinates of the grave of Col. J.G.Gerrard are 28°4'59.42" N 76°6'15.77" E.

Wednesday, 28 November 2012

Old wall paintings at Chotta-Bara Talab, Narnaul

I doubt if the local historians have tried to look closely at this monument. I have read a few local history books and none of them had any mention of the remarkable paintings on the walls of this monument. I  first went there to see ‘Thakte wali Baoli’ which is situated in its vicinity.


Chotta-Bara Talab

After seeing the baoli, I decided to take a few shots of this pond and as I was clicking the snaps from a chattri, situated on one corner of the pond, I noticed these half faded paintings on its dome


Painting showing British soldiers

Among them there was a painting depicting soldiers dressed in red and white, carrying muskets along with some cavalry officers pulling cannons with their horses.

Another painting of soldiers

In an another painting a group of foot soldiers were shown.Then i decided to search all these chattri and found that they all were full of remarkable paintings but most of them were now in completely faded state while others were covered in dust and web.

Another painting

This pond is believed to be at least 150 years old.Already several paintings have become so blurred that it is almost impossible to make out the shapes. If no proper restoration is done then soon they all will be gone.

Paintings inside another Chattri

Another view of the Pond

About Narnaul:- Narnaul is situated at a distance of 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur and 50 Km from Rewari.

About Chotta-Bara Talab (Large and Small Ponds):- This monument is situated very close to Narnaul-Nizampur road. Another monument 'Thakhte wali baoli' is also situated very close to it.

Co-ordinates of the monument:- 28°02’49.27” N  76°05’52.64” E

Monday, 29 October 2012

Fort at village Islampura near Narnaul

There are several monuments which due to their remote locations stay completely off the radar of  our historic communities. Very few people know about them and hence their historic importance remains uncovered . I believe one such unknown monument is a fort situated in village Islampura, at around 17-18 Km from Narnaul city.

Fort at Islampura village

I came to know about this fort from local historian Sh. R.L.Saini. There isn't much written about this fort in the history books till now so who built it, when and why, are still unknown.

View from front

This square shaped fort is now situated in the fields between two villages- Islampur and Serolli. There is only one entrance to it. This fort has high walls, with bastions on each corner. Stairs are there on each wall for reaching the top. Inside the fort there are remains of what could have been rooms once.

Inside the fort

Stairs and ruins

From inside

About the fort:- This fort is situated in the fields of village Islampura.

About village Islampura:- Islampura is situated at around 17-18 Km from Narnaul city. It is situated on Nizampur- Nangal Choudhary route at approx 6-7 Km from Nizampur.

About Narnaul:- Narnaul is situated at a distance of 50 Km from Rewari City and 150 Km from both Delhi and Jaipur.

Co-ordinates of the monument :- 27°55’27.00” N  76°02’02.47” E

Baoli at Mukundpura village near Narnaul


Chhatris on the roof of  Baoli

This baoli (Stepwell) is situated in village Mukundpura near Narnaul City.It is believed to be at least 3-4 centuries old. 
Three levels of the Baoli
This baoli can be easily located through its four small Chhatris (dome shaped pavilions) on its rooftop.It has three stories and two of which are below the ground level. There are long and narrow corridors on  three sides of first and second levels.Remaining side is having stairs,leading all the way down to a small tank on the third level.
Baoli from inside

This small tank is connected to a well situated on the other side of the baoli through a small opening.
Lower level is connected to the well on the other side

well is connected to the tank through a small opening

This baoli is comparatively in much better condition than majority of its counterparts situated at various corners of the city. Let's just hope that it continues to remain so. 

I am thankful of my friend Kamesh for accompanying me there.

About this Baoli:- This Baoli is located at one end of the village. You can ask anyone in the village for directions.

About the village:- This village is situated at 7-8 Km from Narnaul City.There are several routes of reaching here. One such route is a small road on right side (through village Tehla) on Narnaul-Nangal Chaudhary road. It is second or third village on this route.

About Narnaul:- Narnaul city is part of district Mohindergarh and is situated at a distance of 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur and at around 50 Km from Rewari city.

Co-ordinates of the Monument:- 27°59’12.31” N  76°04’42.88” E

Thursday, 11 October 2012

Remains of a 17th century Serai, Narnaul

I believe that the thought of preserving a very old monument and converting it into a museum or tourist attraction is still an alien concept for us. What we like most is the philosophy of ugly modernization where we would demolish some old beautiful monument to make space for the construction of some not so attractive malls or for selling residential plots.

Situation gets even more worse when the monument gets demolished but no new building or mall is erected in its place. We end up losing one of our heritage piece and also fail to modernize our city. One such monument is (or perhaps use of  'was' is more suitable) situated in Narnaul city. 

Local people know it as Purani Kechari (Old Court). Built in 17th century during the reign of  Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan  it was actually a serai. It was known as Serai of Rai Mukund Das, named after the person who was believed to be a banker of the Mughal emperor Shah Jehan.

Entry gate of the Serai (Old Court)

This Serai was one of the few surviving landmarks of the struggle of 1857 in this area. In the first half of the battle of Nasibpur (16th November 1857), it was used by the local army as their base but during the second half, it became a boarding place for the armies of East India Company. Many field reports of that day(of company officers) would tell you how much struggling this battle was. Even the control over this sarai was not easy for the company army.

After the battle this whole region of Mahendragarh district became a part of the territory of Maharaja Patiala. This Serai then started its second journey as a court complex which continued for more than 120 years.

It is believed that the older sections were demolished completely in the beginning of previous decade to make space for erecting a modern shopping complex. A decade later, there are still no signs of that complex.

Court from inside

Remains of the serai

Another look at the ruins

I am not sure whether it was intentional or by mistake that the entry gate of the serai was left standing as it is. This grand gate and a Persian inscription near it, are the only remaining proofs of the grand past of this monument.

Inscription near the gate is still in good condition.


(As written in comments' section by Tarun Pant ji- Translation of this Persian Inscription includes the complete name of Shahjahan- Abul Muzaffar Shahbuddin Muhammad Sahab-e-qiraan Shahjahan Badshah Ghaazi. This inscription describes this building as a 'Karvaan Sarai')

If there are any mistakes in it or any part left untranslated, please do the favor of uploading the improved translation in comments section.

Source of information:- Local History Books
and  http://intach-haryana.org/newsletters/intachnewsletter2007.pdf

About Narnaul :- Narnaul city is situated at a distance of 50 Km from Rewari, 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur..

About the monument :- This monument is known as Puraani Kechari among the local people. It is situated behind the Government Rest House (PWD rest house).

Co ordinates of the monument :- 28°02’58.36” N  76°06’26.25” E

Tuesday, 25 September 2012

Fort at Madhogarh (Mohindergarh)


Madhogarh fort (Haryana)

Awesome is the only word that I would use to describe this fort. Situated on top of a small hill of Aravali Mountain ranges in Haryana, it is by far the most beautiful fort I have come across.

This fort has two complexes; one is the main complex which is situated at the top and the smaller section is located just below it.

Main Complex of the fort

Smaller complex of the fort 

Just few meters below these complexes a large tank is also there on the hill. The main complex has underground chamber(s) which is believed to be connected to the tank.  A stone wall with check-posts is also visible at several sections of the hill. 

Extended fort walls are visible in the background

This would have been a spectacular fort in its prime but today it is in ruins. In absence of proper care its walls and roofs are falling apart.

Tank just below the fort

It is believed that this fort was built more than 400 years ago but by whom, that is still doubtful. Many believe that it was built by King Madho Singh of Jaipur. I visited this fort last Sunday along with my friend Naveen. For reaching here one has to take Mohindergarh–Satnali route. Around 12 Kms from Mohindergarh, just around the last hill turn a small temple would come on left side. A narrow but long, unpaved way alongside this temple would take you to the fort. 

Another view of the fort

About Mohindergarh: - Mohindergarh is a district of state Haryana. Town of Mohindergarh is situated at 65 Km from Bhiwani and 55 Km from Rewari District.

About Madhogarh: - Village Madhogarh is situated at around 12 Km from Mohindergarh town on Mohindergarh-Satnali highway (State Highway 24).

About Fort: - This fort is situated on top of hills surrounding the village Madhogarh.

Co-ordinates of the fort: - 28°18’ 00.00” N  76°02’ 01.14” E

Monday, 24 September 2012

Remains of a medieval fort in Narnaul


Today, you will not find any fort in Narnaul but the presence of a street known as Quila road (fort road) raises the possibility about the existence of some fort like structure in the past.

Take a walk on the street and you will be able to see a 30-35 foot high stone wall standing on one side. 


Stone wall on Quila Road
(Picture was actually taken by me on Sep.2012 )

This semi circular wall seems to be an extension of a massive old structure from the past.

Another look at the wall

There is an empty ground on the other side of the wall which is being used as a dumping ground. Remains of thick stone walls are also visible at several other locations of this ground.

Other remains of thick walls nearby
(Temple of Chamunda Devi is visible in the background)

There is  also a  very famous Temple of Chamunda Devi in this locality and it has been a place of worship for different religious communities of the city in the past.

About Narnaul:- Narnaul city is part of District Mohindergarh of Haryana State. It is situated at a distance of 150 Km from Delhi as well as Jaipur. 

About this monument :- This monument is situated at the center of the city on its famous quila road.

Coordinates of the monument :- 28° 02’ 35.69” N   76° 06’ 22.59” E

Wednesday, 22 August 2012

Rai Bal Mukund Dass ka Chatta, Narnaul

This is by far the most beautiful and the most ignored monument, I have come across. This magnificent haveli is situated at the heart of Narnaul city and has been around for more than 350 years now.

             
What I have read in local history books and have heard from people, is that this haveli was the residence of a rich man named Rai Bal Mukund Dass. He was holding a very high and reputable post in this area during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. 

This haveli is popularly known as "Birbal ka Chatta". How and why this building came to be associated with this famous courtier of emperor Akbar, is still unknown.

              One can only imagine what this monument would have looked like when it was at its prime. 

View from top floor
View from Ground floor

Today its condition is so pathetic that I doubt even the architect of the original building would perhaps fail to recognize it (if he could come back). I know, I am exaggerating the things here, but once you visit this monument and look at its beautiful corridors, halls and rooms then perhaps you too, would start wondering at what our conservation department is doing in this regard.

I know that certain sections have got deteriorated even beyond the scope of repairing and it would be a challenging task for restorers to look after the remaining portion but that doesn't mean that this beautiful monument should stay in this current pathetic state. Still a lot can be preserved. Perhaps there is no other better place for highlighting the architectural advancement of this region.

Broken roof
            Once a five storied structure, it is now left with only three. Only a small section of the remaining two underground levels is accessible today, rest is buried under rubble which no one has bothered to clear. 

Only accessible portion of  the basement
Only part with its wooden pillars and roof still intact
(on first floor)
It seems that the original area of this building would have been much larger than what it is currently left with. I visited this monument in March 2012 and took more than 100 pictures of its different sections which I am trying to arrange in a better way. Some of them i have shared here.

There are several writings on walls here, written both in old Hindi and Urdu. Many of these seem to have been written more than 200 years ago. I doubt if someone has even bothered to decipher them or even cared to look at them closely.They might prove to be an important source for understanding the environment of those days. Below is the photograph of one such writing

Writing on the wall
(Seems to have been written around Samvat 1849 i.e. around 1781-82 AD, 
Writer has written the year at the bottom of this note)

About Narnaul:- Narnaul city is a part of district Mohindergarh of Haryana State. It is situated at a distance of 50 Km from Rewari and 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur. 

About this monument :- This monument is situated at the center of the city, near Mohalla Nalapur. You can ask anyone there, for directions. It is popularly known as - "Birbal ka Chatta" and is generally kept closed to avoid damage and other activities in it. You can request monument keepers who reside in the outer section of the same monument, alongside the street, for opening it and showing you around. 

Co-ordinates of the monument : - 28°02’43.00” N  76°06’30.70” E

Friday, 17 August 2012

Old Havelis at Nangal Sirohi (Mohindergarh)

Village Nangal Sirohi lies between Mohindergarh and Narnaul. It may appear like another ordinary Haryana village at first look but if you get a chance to explore this village closely, you will be amazed to see the beautiful old residences (havelis) and their equally more beautiful paintings.
I too have passed through this village many a times but i still remember how surprised i was when i first noticed  a familliar face on an old painting on a building alongside the road. It was the picture of an old man with grey beards and i am pretty sure that it was of our first nobel laureate Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore. I was not expecting to see his painting other than on some government offices or on schools, which too is very rare in case of Tagore. Not far from this building on the left side (if you are coming from Mohindergarh), you will see another old building, decorated with the drawings of cavalries on both sides of its gate. I have taken some pictures of this haveli and also came to know that there are much more magnificent havelis in this village, which i will try to cover on my next visit (along with the painting of Tagore).
Haveli at Nangal Sirohi
Cavalry painting on left side
Painting on right side

This Haveli is more than 80 years old. It appears that the cavalry on left side is showing British officers while cavalry on right side shows native army officers.

There is another article on these havelis of Nangal Sirohi at http://www.tribuneindia.com/2002/20020622/windows/main2.htm


About Nangal Sirohi :- Nangal Sirohi village is situated at around 17 km from Narnaul and 11 Km from Mohindergarh, on State Highway no. 17. 

Co-ordinates 28°11’26” N 76°07’52”E will help you in reaching there

Thursday, 16 August 2012

Fort at Mohindergarh

This old fort was being used as a Court complex until recently and despite its continuous use as a government office for so many years in the past, its present condition is very sad.

This fort is a square shaped complex surrounded by high walls.Two story residential structures are there, inside the fort along its perimeter. Few of these are still in good condition and are in use while other sections have fallen apart or in the middle of this process.There is also an old well inside the complex.

I could not find much about the history of this fort except a few passing references in certain sources like Gazetteer of Punjab State published in 1908. There is a brief note on page 306 about this fort, which reads as ,"The fort at Kanaud in Patiala state, was so named in 1861 by Maharaja Narinder Singh, in honor of his son Mohinder Singh. The fort contains public offices of Mohindergarh nizamat and tahsil and the treasury, jail etc".

Old name of Mohindergarh was Kanaud (prior to 1860s, before it became a part of Patiala state).

Fort is also mentioned, several times in the book "Military memoirs of Mr.George Thomas" by William Francklin (1805). According to this, Marathas had a very strong hold in this region and this fort was under the command of their chief Appakanderow and later of his successor Vavon Row.

It is also believed that the fort has also seen the passive action during the uprising of 1857. Company armies under the command of Lt.Col. J.G. Gerrard had camped here before starting their march towards the battlefield of Nasibpur (Near Narnaul, around 25 Km from Mohindergarh), on the early morning on 16th November 1857.

It is also believed that prior to the arrival of Company and their supporters, this fort was under native control(Forces of Rewari) and they had evacuated it in order to assemble as a much stronger army at Nasibpur.

Front gate of the fort

Front gate from Inside

2-story quarters along side the fort wall (inside the fort)

Condition of the fort

 well inside the fort complex

About Mohindergarh:- Mohindergarh is a district in Haryana and is situated at a distance of 25 Km from Narnaul, 45 Km from Rewari and 65 km from Bhiwani. 

Co-ordinates of the fort :- 28°16’10” N and 76°08’48”E.

Other places at Mohindergarh city:- There are many old Havelis in the city and some of them are really amazing which i would try to cover during my next visit.

Official Website of Mohindergarh district is http://mahendragarh.nic.in

I am thankful of my friend Naveen for accompanying me there.