Showing posts with label History. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History. Show all posts

Thursday, 29 May 2014

There was a hedge once.


(Technically this article cannot be included under “Heritage of Haryana” but nonetheless it is a part of Haryana’s history.)

This article is about a piece of history that was once like a mammoth but still it managed to stay hidden from historians for a very long time. Even after more than 130 years not much has been discovered, heard and written about it.

Here i am writing about my own chance discovery of this little known fact - there was a hedge once.

It all began with a visit to an elderly person few months back (2013). I had met him to know more about the history of a village (Mundhal). Until then i was not at all familiar with the works of Roy Moxham and was not even expecting to find something unusual that would eventually be leading me to look for one of his books.

This person i had met, told me several stories related to the village and its history along with some famous anecdotes of long gone ancestors. Among these, there was this one story of a horse which I kind of rejected as soon as I heard it. Why? Because, I could not understand its relevance and failed to see any connections it could have had with the history of the village.

This story goes something like this-

A distant ancestor used to have a mare and there was one specialty about her- she could jump very high and could cover long distances. In the story, she was used for carrying items from one side of a large fence to the other side.

Naturally, I could not see anything of my interest in that story. I was more like, What was the need for showing off these equestrian skills when they could have cut a way across that fence, if it was that much necessary? I felt as if it was a conjured up tale and wrote only two words in my notes- fence and horse.

But a few days later I had to meet the same person again for some more information and this time he said that the fence he was talking about the other day, was also mentioned in a recent local newspaper.I don’t know why, but this time also I did not pay any attention (perhaps it was not, what i was looking for). Luckily my grandfather was with me that day and upon his insistence I had to search for that newspaper.

And finally the paper was dug out (Dainik Bhaskar of 15/08/2013) and when I started reading this small article, somehow the dots began to connect. Along with this article there was a small map of India with a curved line drawn across it. The sentence that caught my attention was-‘once this hedge (the curved line) was comparable to the great wall of China’. I got inspired further and started digging deeper.

I googled it and found this Wikipedia article on “Inland Customs Line”. Roy Moxham and his book “The Great Hedge of India” were mentioned in it. Now, for the first time, I began to think that even if this hitherto irrelevant story had the slightest of truth in it, it would be making strong and strange connections.Thinking that I bought this book and started reading it. 

On the very first page, there was a map of Indian subcontinent and a line was carved across it. Most thrilling part was seeing a familiar name on this map-“Hissar”. This line was connecting Hissar to Delhi on one side and to Fazilka on other side and this village of ours would have fallen  right on or very close to this line!. I began to read further and could stop only when I found that there were no more pages left.

Roy Moxham has written such a wonderful 234 page book that along with all the necessary history describes his adventurous journey in search of any last remaining signs of this once large custom fence.

After reading this book my reaction was similar to that of Roy Moxham (he has written about it in his book) that it was such a long hedge and yet there was no mention of it in any of the history books.

Custom Hedge (fence):-
Source:- The Great Indian Hedge by Roy Moxham

This hedge was built to separate the British occupied territories from the princely states and for collecting the revenue by taxing the goods being exchanged between these areas. Salt and sugar were two main items on which tax was being collected. There were check posts on this entire 1500 mile long hedge and it was manned by a huge staff of more than 14000 persons at its peak (1872).
It was also known as a live hedge as it was built using locally found thick and thorny vegetation. At many places it had grown so thick that it was almost impenetrable.

A.O.Hume, who was the commissioner of inland customs in 1869-70 wrote in his reports:

“A great variety of experiments have been tried; almost every description of locally indigenous thorny shrubs has been tried, whenever peculiar difficulties were experienced.”  (p100, Roy Moxham)

In the same report, Hume further wrote:

“Many miles of bank have again been thrown up for the growth of the prickly pear in places like Urneewalla (Hissar), where nothing else will grow.” (p101, R.M.)

Until its discontinuation in April 1879, this customs hedge was running from Burhanpur roughly north- via Khandwa, Hoshangabad, Sagar, Jhansi, Jalaun, Agra, Mathura, Rohtak, Hissar and Fazilka. At Fazilka it entered into present day Pakistan.

Now Let's get back to our story:-

At first I thought this could only be a coincidence but when I roughly tried to attach a time line to the generations (approximately 20-30 years to a generation), time period was getting aligned with the period of hedge (1860-1880s).

In this story I was told that this fence was along the present day National Highway 10. It was approximately 8-10 feet high and also quite wide. On one side of it there was availability of cheaper Salt and on the other side, cheaper Sugar.

On one side of this hedge was perhaps the territory of then princely state of Jind(Jheend) and on the other side British Indian territories (remember this hedge was abandoned in 1879 and hence no living memory of it so all we have are its fragments, embedded deep inside anecdotes like this one).

By then i was sure that at least this fence was a real thing.

Back to back famines of 1860-61 (Upper Doab Famine) and of 1869 (Rajputana famine) coupled with inadequate relief measures of then British-Indian government would perhaps had made people desperate to find ways across this fence in order to procure items (Salt and sugar) of daily use at an affordable prices. In such a tough times it was perhaps not possible for them to acquire these items through a proper manner.

And i had understood the role of that mare too.

(Although one can still debate on the height that a horse can jump but as per Wikipedia article Jumping Horse ,world record is of 8 feet and few inches. Back then they were not trying for some record so they might have found out other ways of getting that mare over the fence safely or may be that mare was really capable that's why she is still alive in the stories)

Moral of the story:-

What I have tried to learn from this is that even the smallest piece of information that may sound completely irrelevant at first, might end up providing a lot more useful information. 

Since, we did not have the tradition of writing history back then because of lack of familiarity with scripts in our most of rural parts. Despite all this, our elders/ancestors had tried their best to keep the history alive through stories like these.

During its passage from one generation to another, often new elements get added to it and some parts might get distorted or forgotten but still that story should not be discarded simply on its face value (as i was trying to do). After all we are left with only that story and it might still have a lot of elements of truth in it.

Now it is up to the educated (at least script familiar) generation to put this dwindling and long kept alive oral history bank into a written format and who knows maybe, we might end up finding something as interesting as this long forgotten custom hedge.

Sunday, 24 March 2013

Grand Barsi Gate of Hansi

Just like a river or a mountain, some monuments too become a permanent feature on the landscape of a city. They become such an integral part of daily life that without them it would be totally impossible to imagine the whole city. They become like a vital organ.

Barsi Gate, Hansi

(Picture was taken by me in Sept,2012)

One such remarkable monument is situated in Hansi. This monument has served as the main entrance of city for more than 850 years now and has allowed generations of Hansi-ans to pass through. Barsi Gate is one of the dearest landmark of my city and being an Hansi-an, I think that we should be extremely proud of having such a beautiful monument in our city.

When was it built?

Had it not been Col. James Skinner, we would perhaps not be able to conclusively attach a timeline to this gate. It was in 1815, when James stumbled upon an inscription, used as a construction block in one of the buildings of the fort of Hansi. He had it removed from there and kept it with himself. It was from there, that this Sanskrit inscription was translated by two remarkable scholars Captain Edward Fell and Captain James Tod.

Despite the differences in their translations, several important points were common and according to these, this inscription was erected in the glory of King Prithviraja, who had appointed one, Kilhana as his representative in the fort of Asi (Hansi) and Kilhana had built a big, strong gateway in the city. Inscription bore the year Vikram Samvat 1224 which would be equivalent to 1167 A.D. Gate described in this inscription could be Barsi Gate.

(For reading more about this difference in translations, consult "The Quarterly Oriental Magazine, Review and Register", Vol-4, July-December 1825, p36)

Unfortunately, we have lost this inscription long time back. Within a few years of its discovery, it was reported as lost by the translator, James Tod himself. In his lecture on 1st May 1824 at a meeting of newly formed Royal Asiatic Society in London, he remarked,

The inscription, which I obtained through the kindness of my friend Colonel Skinner, had been saved from the general wreck of once great halls, by the materials being taken to erect a small place of worship; and this slab was built into the wall in a reversed position. It was afterwards presented to the Marquis of Hastings; but as it reached this nobleman at a very busy period of his career, in 1818, I know not what became of it.

(Source:- Transactions of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland, Vol.1,1827, p135)

Tod had dedicated several years of his life in India towards researching and writing the history of Rajputana, alongside his duties in the services of Company. No doubt, it was very frustrating for a dedicated historian like Tod, to loose such an important piece of history.

On Page 260 of Hisar District Gazetter, Published by Revenue Department, Chandigarh, Haryana in 1987, it says that this inscription is a part of collection of Royal Scottish Museum at Edinburgh, Scotland.

It was an encouraging find and in order to get its photograph or any available sketch, I wrote to them with all the available information about this inscription, but so far I have not received any reply. I guess, I should just keep on requesting them.

Recently (2019), I found another evidence which supports this inscription's presence at Royal Scottish Museum. In an article titled under- "Some Unpublished Inscriptions" By D.R. Bhandarkar, M.A., Poona, he mentions- "The inscription Stone, strange to say, is now lying in the Royal Scottish Museum at Edinburgh. Two Excellent Photographs of it  had been sent four years ago by a person connected with this Museum to a Parsi gentleman in Poona, called Mr. Frenchman, who made them over to me. And it is from these photographs that i edit the inscription."
                                                                              (source: P17, The Indian Antiquary, Vol- XLI-1912)


Well, until the photograph or sketch of this inscription is found, we have to find solace in the translations of Tod and Fell.

( For Translations consult following sources:-

Captain E. Fell's translation (who died in 1824, before the publication of his translation) – Asiatic Researches, Volume-15, 1825, p443 to p446.


Captain Tod’s Translation- Transactions of Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland, vol-1, p133 to p154

Translation is also available in:-


“Inscriptions of Haryana” Edited by SR Phogat, 1978, p38 to p41.

“Hansi: Itihaas ki Dharohar” By. Jagdish Saini,  2005, p277 to p279 )


As it was the tradition during early medieval periods that every new generation of conquerors had tried to leave behind its own marks of greatness by rubbing off the deeds of its predecessors especially when the predecessor belonged to a completely different set of ideals and beliefs. History of Hansi is a proof of this.

With one inscription lost, Hansi received another equally remarkable inscription which happens to be among the earliest Persian inscriptions in the subcontinent. This inscription was fixed on top of Barsi Gate in the year 1303 (Hijri 703) and is still there. This one is glorifying the Khilji Dynasty ruler , Alauddin Khilji. 

Persian Inscription on top of Barsi Gate, Hansi

(Photo Courtesy of Sh. Jagdish Saini, Author and Historian)


At least now we can safely say that the gate has been around in its present form for more than 700 years now. How much of it has been contributed by the previous rulers, we cannot say conclusively.

Barsi Gate has been repaired several times since then.

Earliest available proof of its repairing is on a Persian inscription above the sentry room on the left side of gate. It bears the year 1522 AD (Hijri 928) and was erected during the reign of Ibrahim Shah Lodhi.

Inscription inside Barsi Gate

(Photo Courtesy of Sh. Jagdish Saini, Author and Historian)


In the year 1799, when George Thomas decided to make Hansi, the capital of his newly conquered territory, the very first thing he did was to order the repairing of city walls and the fort.

                (Source “Military memoirs of Mr. George Thomas” by William Francklin, 1805, p133)

A fierce battle was fought in the city on December 1801 between the Marathas and George Thomas. This battle seemed to have caused a lot of damage to the gate. This damage can be seen in the first ever sketch of the city available to us. Right tower of the gate seems to have been damaged badly during this war.

Sketch of Barsi Gate drawn by Captain Robert Smith (1783-1873) in 1812

(Courtesy of British Library)

This damage is also visible in the beautiful color painting of city, by an Indian Artist Sitaram who was part of the convoy of then Governor General, Marquis of Hastings during his journey across the Company governed territories in 1814-15.

Closeup of the painting by Sitaram

(Courtesy of British Library)

In the reports of Archaeological Survey of India for the year 1935-36, it says that some stone guards were fixed against the piers of the gate.

Repairing work on Barsi Gate was also done in 2001.
(source:- p20, Hansi-Itihaas ki Darohar by Sh. Jagdish Saini, 2005)

Another major restoration work has got completed recently (in last quarter of 2013) and the work done by the department is really appreciable.

Earliest available photograph of Barsi Gate was taken by a local photographer Mr. Arjun Dalmia (Arjun Photostudio) during late 1950s.

1950s Photograph of Barsi Gate by Arjun Dalmia

(For this photograph and its related information I am thankful of Sh. Jagdish Saini)

Being the oldest intact monument of city and because to its critical location of being situated at one of the most busiest section of the city, it should be constantly monitored for cracks and other damages.


Following sources were consulted for details- 

"Military memoirs of Mr.George Thomas", by William Francklin, 1805 
"Tajkira-e-Hansi" by Kaji Saiyyad Sarif Hussain, 1915
"Hansi Etihasik Sinhavlokan" by Dr. Bhup Singh Rajput, 1981.    
"Hisar-i-Firuza: Sultanate and Early Mughal Architecture in the district of Hisar, India" by Mehrdad and Natalie Shokoohy, 1988
"Hansi-Etihaas ki Darohar" by Sh. Jagdish Saini, 2005 (which is by far the most detailed book on the history of Hansi)

About Hansi:- Hansi is situated on National Highway 10 (Delhi to Hisar) at around 130 Km from Delhi, 65 Km from Rohtak and 24 Km from Hisar.

About Barsi Gate:-It is such a famous landmark that you can ask anyone in Hansi, for directions. If you are coming from Delhi (NH-10) then after crossing the city bus stand, take right from the next circle (Ambedkar Chowk) and keep following this street for around 700-800 mtrs and you will find yourself staring at this gate.

Co-ordinates of the Monument:- 29°05’55.38”N 75°57’51.71”E