Unknown Monument at Hisar

The city of Hisar or if one wants to be more historically precise then ‘Hisar-e-Firoza’ was founded by Tuglaq dynasty ruler Firoz Shah Tuglaq in 14th century. The Emperor had built a fort here and also brought a canal to this area.

Several historically important monuments are here including Guzri Mahal of 14th century, Jehaj-kothi (or George-Kothi i.e. Residence of George Thomas) of late 18th century, Cattle Farm of early 19th century, St.Thomas Church of mid 19th century and several temples from 19th century.

There are also a few monuments which are quite old but because of the absence of any evidence, it is not possible to accurately associate a particular time with them. One such monument is situated very near to Mahaveer Stadium and CCS Haryana Agriculture University. This unknown monument is a tomb but of whom,that we are not sure of.

Unknown Monument at Hisar

Although there is a sign board that says that this monument is under the protection of Archaeological Department but the condition of this warning board itself is an indicator of the situation of the PROTECTED MONUMENT. Instead the department should have erected a detailed descriptive board so that we all can know something about the monument also.

Another view of the monument

Floor is full of bat droppings and garbage, Roof may collapse any time soon, Stairs are half broken and after seeing the condition of the roof it appears  that perhaps the department has started supporting the concept of terrace gardening.One has to fight with thorny bushes to make way for reaching the top of this monument for a closer look.

I am thankful of my friend Luxmi for accompanying me there.

About Hisar :- Hisar is situated at a distance of 150 Km from Delhi on National Highway No. 10.

About Monument :- This monument is situated behind Mahaveer Stadium and is very close to CCS Haryana Agriculture University.

Co-ordinates of the monument:- 29°08’52.00”N 75°42’59.54”E

Old wall paintings at Chotta-Bara Talab, Narnaul

I doubt if the local historians have tried to look closely at this monument. I have read a few local history books and none of them had any mention of the remarkable paintings on the walls of this monument. I  first went there to see ‘Thakte wali Baoli’ which is situated in its vicinity.

Chotta-Bara Talab

After seeing the baoli, I decided to take a few shots of this pond and as I was clicking the snaps from a chattri, situated on one corner of the pond, I noticed these half faded paintings on its dome

Painting showing British soldiers

Among them there was a painting depicting soldiers dressed in red and white, carrying muskets along with some cavalry officers pulling cannons with their horses.

Another painting of soldiers

In an another painting a group of foot soldiers were shown.Then i decided to search all these chattri and found that they all were full of remarkable paintings but most of them were now in completely faded state while others were covered in dust and web.

Another painting

This pond is believed to be at least 150 years old.Already several paintings have become so blurred that it is almost impossible to make out the shapes. If no proper restoration is done then soon they all will be gone.

Paintings inside another Chattri

Another view of the Pond

About Narnaul:- Narnaul is situated at a distance of 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur and 50 Km from Rewari.

About Chotta-Bara Talab (Large and Small Ponds):- This monument is situated very close to Narnaul-Nizampur road. Another monument 'Thakhte wali baoli' is also situated very close to it.

Co-ordinates of the monument:- 28°02’49.27” N  76°05’52.64” E

Fort at village Islampura near Narnaul

There are several monuments which due to their remote locations stay completely off the radar of  our historic communities. Very few people know about them and hence their historic importance remains uncovered . I believe one such unknown monument is a fort situated in village Islampura, at around 17-18 Km from Narnaul city.

Fort at Islampura village

I came to know about this fort from local historian Sh. R.L.Saini. There isn't much written about this fort in the history books till now so who built it, when and why, are still unknown.

View from front

This square shaped fort is now situated in the fields between two villages- Islampur and Serolli. There is only one entrance to it. This fort has high walls, with bastions on each corner. Stairs are there on each wall for reaching the top. Inside the fort there are remains of what could have been rooms once.

Inside the fort

Stairs and ruins

From inside

About the fort:- This fort is situated in the fields of village Islampura.

About village Islampura:- Islampura is situated at around 17-18 Km from Narnaul city. It is situated on Nizampur- Nangal Choudhary route at approx 6-7 Km from Nizampur.

About Narnaul:- Narnaul is situated at a distance of 50 Km from Rewari City and 150 Km from both Delhi and Jaipur.

Co-ordinates of the monument :- 27°55’27.00” N  76°02’02.47” E

Baoli at Mukundpura village near Narnaul

Chhatris on the roof of  Baoli

This baoli (Stepwell) is situated in village Mukundpura near Narnaul City.It is believed to be at least 3-4 centuries old. 

Three levels of the Baoli

This baoli can be easily located through its four small Chhatris (dome shaped pavilions) on its rooftop.It has three stories and two of which are below the ground level. There are long and narrow corridors on  three sides of first and second levels.Remaining side is having stairs,leading all the way down to a small tank on the third level.

Baoli from inside

This small tank is connected to a well situated on the other side of the baoli through a small opening.

Lower level is connected to the well on the other side

well is connected to the tank through a small opening

This baoli is comparatively in much better condition than majority of its counterparts situated at various corners of the city. Let's just hope that it continues to remain so. 

I am thankful of my friend Kamesh for accompanying me there.

About this Baoli:- This Baoli is located at one end of the village. You can ask anyone in the village for directions.

About the village:- This village is situated at 7-8 Km from Narnaul City.There are several routes of reaching here. One such route is a small road on right side (through village Tehla) on Narnaul-Nangal Chaudhary road. It is second or third village on this route.

About Narnaul:- Narnaul city is part of district Mohindergarh and is situated at a distance of 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur and at around 50 Km from Rewari city.

Co-ordinates of the Monument:- 27°59’12.31” N  76°04’42.88” E

Remains of a 17th century Serai, Narnaul

I believe that the thought of preserving a very old monument and converting it into a museum or tourist attraction is still an alien concept for us. What we like most is the philosophy of ugly modernization where we would demolish some old beautiful monument to make space for the construction of some not so attractive malls or for selling residential plots.

Situation gets even more worse when the monument gets demolished but no new building or mall is erected in its place. We end up losing one of our heritage piece and also fail to modernize our city. One such monument is (or perhaps use of  'was' is more suitable) situated in Narnaul city. 

Local people know it as Purani Kechari (Old Court). Built in 17th century during the reign of  Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan  it was actually a serai. It was known as Serai of Rai Mukund Das, named after the person who was believed to be a banker of the Mughal emperor Shah Jehan.

Entry gate of the Serai (Old Court)

This Serai was one of the few surviving landmarks of the struggle of 1857 in this area. In the first half of the battle of Nasibpur (16th November 1857), it was used by the local army as their base but during the second half, it became a boarding place for the armies of East India Company. Many field reports of that day(of company officers) would tell you how much struggling this battle was. Even the control over this sarai was not easy for the company army.

After the battle this whole region of Mahendragarh district became a part of the territory of Maharaja Patiala. This Serai then started its second journey as a court complex which continued for more than 120 years.

It is believed that the older sections were demolished completely in the beginning of previous decade to make space for erecting a modern shopping complex. A decade later, there are still no signs of that complex.

Court from inside

Remains of the serai

Another look at the ruins

I am not sure whether it was intentional or by mistake that the entry gate of the serai was left standing as it is. This grand gate and a Persian inscription near it, are the only remaining proofs of the grand past of this monument.

Inscription near the gate is still in good condition.

(As written in comments' section by Tarun Pant ji- Translation of this Persian Inscription includes the complete name of Shahjahan- Abul Muzaffar Shahbuddin Muhammad Sahab-e-qiraan Shahjahan Badshah Ghaazi. This inscription describes this building as a 'Karvaan Sarai')

If there are any mistakes in it or any part left untranslated, please do the favor of uploading the improved translation in comments section.

Source of information:- Local History Books
and  http://intach-haryana.org/newsletters/intachnewsletter2007.pdf

About Narnaul :- Narnaul city is situated at a distance of 50 Km from Rewari, 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur..

About the monument :- This monument is known as Puraani Kechari among the local people. It is situated behind the Government Rest House (PWD rest house).

Co ordinates of the monument :- 28°02’58.36” N  76°06’26.25” E

Peer Turkman Dargah, Narnaul

Peer Turkman Dargah

Dargah of Peer Turkman is perhaps the oldest Islamic era monument of the region. It is believed that it was built during the late 13th Century. According to the local history books this Dargah was built in remembrance of Peer Turkman who died here during a battle with the local king.

Dargah from inside

Present Dargah was built around two centuries after the death of the Peer.It is believed that emperor Akbar too had visited this Dargah during his journeys through this area. 

Main complex of Dargah

Tomb of Ibrahim Shah Suri ( Grandfather of first Suri Dynasty ruler Sher Shah Suri ) is situated in the vicinity of dargah.

Tomb of  Ibrahim Shah Suri is situated next to the dargah

About Narnaul :- Narnaul is district headquarter of Mohindergarh District of State Haryana. it is situated at 50 Km from Rewari and 150 Km from Delhi and Jaipur.

About the Monument :- Dargah of Peer Turkman is situated in Mohalla Peer-aga. It is very near to Old Subji   Mandi (Azad Chowk). 

Co-ordinates of the Monument :- 28°02’26.77” N  76°06’07.90” E

Fort at Madhogarh (Mohindergarh)

Madhogarh fort (Haryana)

Awesome is the only word that I would use to describe this fort. Situated on top of a small hill of Aravali Mountain ranges in Haryana, it is by far the most beautiful fort I have come across.

This fort has two complexes; one is the main complex which is situated at the top and the smaller section is located just below it.

Main Complex of the fort

Smaller complex of the fort 

Just few meters below these complexes a large tank is also there on the hill. The main complex has underground chamber(s) which is believed to be connected to the tank.  A stone wall with check-posts is also visible at several sections of the hill. 

Extended fort walls are visible in the background

This would have been a spectacular fort in its prime but today it is in ruins. In absence of proper care its walls and roofs are falling apart.

Tank just below the fort

It is believed that this fort was built more than 400 years ago but by whom, that is still doubtful. Many believe that it was built by King Madho Singh of Jaipur. I visited this fort last Sunday along with my friend Naveen. For reaching here one has to take Mohindergarh–Satnali route. Around 12 Kms from Mohindergarh, just around the last hill turn a small temple would come on left side. A narrow but long, unpaved way alongside this temple would take you to the fort. 

Another view of the fort

About Mohindergarh: - Mohindergarh is a district of state Haryana. Town of Mohindergarh is situated at 65 Km from Bhiwani and 55 Km from Rewari District.

About Madhogarh: - Village Madhogarh is situated at around 12 Km from Mohindergarh town on Mohindergarh-Satnali highway (State Highway 24).

About Fort: - This fort is situated on top of hills surrounding the village Madhogarh.

Co-ordinates of the fort: - 28°18’ 00.00” N  76°02’ 01.14” E

Remains of a medieval fort in Narnaul

Today, you will not find any fort in Narnaul but the presence of a street known as Quila road (fort road) raises the possibility about the existence of some fort like structure in the past.

Take a walk on the street and you will be able to see a 30-35 foot high stone wall standing on one side. 

Stone wall on Quila Road

(Picture was actually taken by me on Sep.2012 )

This semi circular wall seems to be an extension of a massive old structure from the past.

Another look at the wall

There is an empty ground on the other side of the wall which is being used as a dumping ground. Remains of thick stone walls are also visible at several other locations of this ground.

Other remains of thick walls nearby

(Temple of Chamunda Devi is visible in the background)

There is  also a  very famous Temple of Chamunda Devi in this locality and it has been a place of worship for different religious communities of the city in the past.

About Narnaul:- Narnaul city is part of District Mohindergarh of Haryana State. It is situated at a distance of 150 Km from Delhi as well as Jaipur. 

About this monument :- This monument is situated at the center of the city on its famous quila road.

Coordinates of the monument :- 28° 02’ 35.69” N   76° 06’ 22.59” E

Another old baoli (bawdi) at Naranul.

I don’t know whether we actually know the history of our cities or we just pretend about knowing it.  I feel great, whenever I come across a well preserved monument and my happiness increases when i find it having an introduction (however brief it may be) near its entrance and I begin to think that we indeed, do know something about our history.

On the other hand, I have seen several equally remarkable monuments which seem to have so much information about the past but they are in a completely neglected state. Instead of having a much deserved introductory board, they don’t even have the trespassers warning sign board. The situation becomes even more ugly when you visit the building and see it covered with the writings from 17^th century and when you try to search this building on official websites and in local books, you end up finding absolutely nothing about it.

This forces me to believe that we actually know very less about our local history and adding to that, we are deliberately trying to ignore and destroying much more. One such monument is situated on the outskirts of city of Naranul, inside the premises of its famous Baba Kheta Nath Government Polytechnic College.

There are actually two monuments inside this college. One is an unknown tomb (near its water tank).

Unknown old monument inside college

Other one is a Bawdi(Baoli) situated at the centre.

Entry of the Bawdi(Baoli)

Bawdi from inside

This three story monument is actually a step-well, with one floor at sub-ground level. There are stairs at one side that goes all the way to the bottom of it and are perhaps separated by a wall from a well on its other end.

The most remarkable thing about this monument are the writings on its walls, seems to have been written by people who had perhaps stayed here, during their journeys. These writings go back all the way from 21^st century to 17^th century. They are in Hindi, Urdu, Persian, Old broken Hindi (?) and even in English.

Writing on the wall

Another wall writing

Another writing in Urdu  Persian 

(as pointed out in comments section by Tarun Pant ji )

Thanks to dirt, webs and ignorance of our restoration departments (which perhaps would have plastered over these walls, without even bothering to chronicle these writings before doing so), these writings are still visible today. I have taken photographs of as many as I could find there and some of them I am posting here.

At least the oldest year mentioned in these would help us with a probable time of the construction of this building and also we would be able to find out, what kind of people used to visit the city and from where and with what purpose. So, in my opinion these writings are an important source of our history and deserve to be studied carefully.

About Narnaul :- Naranul city is a part of Mohindergarh district. It is situated at a distance of 28 Km from Mohindergarh, 50 Km from Rewari and 150 Kms from Delhi and Jaipur.

About the Monument :- Both these monuments are situated inside the premises of BKN Govt. Polytechnic College which is situated on the outskirts of Naranul. It's better to take Narnaul- Nizampur road for reaching there. You have to take a link road on the left side after around 1-2 Km from Naranul, which would again be taking you back towards the city. You can ask anybody there about this college.

Co-ordinates of the monument :- 28°02’08.30” N and 76°06’01.40” E (for bawdi) and 

                                                  28°02’12.00” N and 76°06’05.33” E (for the unknown monument) 

Col.James Skinner and his connection with Hansi

Col. James Skinner was one of the  most interesting figures of early 19th Century north  India. He was born to an Indian mother and a British father and because of this mixed heritage he could  not secure any job with the East India Company during the early stages of his life. Later he joined the Schindia Army (Gwalior State) and served under the French officers and was the part of Maratha campaign against George Thomas, an Irishman who had taken control over a large part of present day Haryana. Last of the battles against George Thomas was fought in Hansi (now a part of District Hisar) in December 1801,in which Thomas had agreed to surrender the fort of Hansi to Marathas.

James Skinner

(Source:-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Skinner_(East_India_Company_officer)

British East India Company was also trying to take this territory under their control at around the same time and hence the clash between the Marathas and the Company was inevitable. Situation was even more tough for those few Englishmen who were the part of Maratha army and James was one of them. These Englishmen had decided not to fight against their own countrymen and because of which they had to leave the Maratha army in 1803. Later they joined the English company army, under Lord Lake and went on to fight several battles for them. Battle of Bharatpur was one of them.

James had raised a regiment of irregular cavalry known as “Skinner’s Horse” which later became a part of regular army. As a part of company army this regiment went on to fight in the first Anglo-Afghan war (1839-1842). Even after more than 200 years, it is still a part of Indian Army (but the difference now is that the Tanks have replaced the horses but it is still Skinner's Horse Regiment).

James was granted a jagir of Hansi and a few nearby villages by the company for his loyal services  in 1818. In 1828, he was given the rank of Col. and was conferred with the Companion of the order of the Bath (C.B.). 

Several buildings were commissioned by him in and around Hansi apart from the famous St.James Church and his nearby situated Haveli in Delhi (Near Kashmere Gate).

Skinner's Residence at Hansi

Skinner had built his residence in Hansi which is still there used to be there till few months back but has now become a history just like Col. James Skinner himself. The place where this was once situated is known as “Maim ka Bagh”. Some of his descendants used to live there till few years back. 

The only thing that is (perhaps) still surviving is a large, beautiful white colored gate at the entrance.(Next to the Jat Dharamshala, Hansi)

Entrance to Maim ka Bagh

(situated on NH-10)

In the book of William Dalrymple,"City of Djinns", several letters are mentioned which were written by Mr. William Fraser from the residence of Col. Skinner in Hansi. Perhaps it was the same place. William Fraser was a close friend and a business partner of Col.Skinner and later became the Commissioner of Delhi Territory.
 
This residence had also found its mention in another famous book of William Dalrymple, The last Mughal.

"The Skinners' sprawling Georgian House at Hansi was the mansion her (Elizabeth Wagentrieber) father had built at his principal country seat, and from where in happier days Sikandar had run both his irregular cavalry regiment and his stud"

-p233, The Last Mughal

Now this 'sprawling Georgian House' is completely gone. Only the entrance gate is standing now and that too only for the time being.

(Our question is not whether we want development in the form of new malls or complexes or we just want to restrict ourselves to some old building which by the way is of no use to anybody, but our question is Can we? or Can we not, do both things simultaneously?. In simple language just make that old building a part of the shopping complex. We have so many examples in our India itself where old forts, Havelis etc have been converted into hotels and in the long run they are generating much more profit and attraction in comparison with the short term gains. Alas! we are too busy and also in hurry.) 

Sir Theophilus Metcalfe-'Theo' had stayed here after escaping from Delhi (via Jhajjar) on the outbreak of the revolt of 1857.

Small fort like structure in Village Dhana, near Hansi

Col. Skinner had also built a small fort like structure in the village Dhana, 5-6 Km from Hansi, on NH-10, towards Delhi.

I got the chance to visit Dhana on 14^th July 2012 and found that whatever he might have built, it was nearly gone now. Except a small arched gateway(see below photograph) and a tiny section of wall inside, there was nothing left there. This small fortification was built in the year 1841 (as per the inscription on it). 
Skinner died later that year on 4^th December 1841. He was initially buried at Hansi graveyard(situated near his residence in Hansi) but later on his remains were moved to St. James’ Church in Delhi, which too was built by him.

Entrance of the fort

Entrance from inside

Corridors alongside the entrance

Side View of the entrance 

This monument is situated at the end of a street besides Govt. Girls School of the village and its Co-ordinates are - 29°05’14.64”N  76°01’23.00”E

In the National Army Museum of London, there is a painting by an Indian Artisit Ghulam Ali Khan (commissioned by James Skinner) of the year 1828 which shows Col. James Skinner riding in his carriage, at his estate in Dhana. This fortification is also visible in the background (which confirms that it was built prior to 1828).

1828 painting by Ghulam Ali Khan (with Dhana fortification visible in the background)

(Courtesy:- National Army Museum, London)

This fortification is not the only thing left in the village, bearing the name of Col. James Skinner. Through Sh.Jagdish Saini (Author and Historian), i came to know about a small pond situated close to this fortification and also having an inscription related to James Skinner.

Nearby pond at village Dhana (Hansi)

Inscription near the pond. 

It reads

"Built by Colonel J Skinner C.B.1840"

Same lines are written below in Persian (perhaps)

Other structures associated with Col.James Skinner

It is believed that the two beautiful mausoleums, situated on one end inside Hansi's famous Dargah Char Qutub complex belong to two of his wives who were the followers of Islam.

(Source:- Hansi:Ek Etihaasik Dharohar by Sh.Jagdish Saini)

There are few villages nearby which were named after him and his children. For example- Sikandarpura (after Skinner himself, who was used to be called by natives as Sikandar, instead of Skinner), Alakhpura (after his son Alex) and Enipura (after his daughter Annie).

Skinner was so much native in his ways that when he wrote his two books, he opted for Persian. It was believed that he was more proficient in native tongues than in English.

I have collected the above information from the following sources:-

from “Hansi:Ek Etihaasik Dharohar” (History of Hansi) written by Sh.Jagdish Saini (an author and Historian) and from “Military Memoir of Lieut-Col. James Skinner, C. B.” by James Baillie Fraser.

About Hansi :- It is one of the oldest cities of Haryana and it situated in district Hisar. It is at 130 Km from Delhi and 27 Km from Hisar (on NH-10)